There was no goopy mess on the brass serial number plate which I took as a good sign.
Compare it to the mess on the 201 I bought in Syracuse last winter. Those dark stains on the serial number are from melted wire insulation.
I did not plug it in today. I decided to just clean it first. I started with the motor because I wanted to follow Rain’s advice as posted in his wonderful tutorial http://vssmb.blogspot.com
I had a hard time getting the hand wheel off. Despite the fact that it should just pull off after loosening the set screw in the stop motion knob, it would not budge. Thank goodness for Tri Flow. I managed to free it up, finally, after some help from the persuader. You can see the thick caked on grease that was gluing the hand wheel in place.
The lead wires looked pretty good but I did notice that the white one had some black sticky stuff on it. The black one probably did as well, but I couldn’t see it. I paid no attention to the fact that these wires were not housed in the black shrink wrap that indicates original wiring.
I checked the brushes. There is a bit of life left in them, but I know where I can buy new ones http://shop.sew-classic.com/
I thought that I could just pull the armature, clean the commutator and pop the thing back together and get stitching. When I pulled the motor housing off, I noticed that the insulation on the field core was a bit frayed. I thought that this would be a good application for that liquid electrician’s tape that I had seen at the hardware store.
I hemmed and hawed, then, about whether I really needed to check the lead wire connections. I decided to do it, what the heck. The more experience I get with these motors, the better.
This is what I found: deteriorating electrical tape.
It was a mess. I had to snip and snip and snip it away. I finally got to the soldered joint and was so disappointed to see what a messy job had been done.
The black wire was worse but that lead has more original wire to work with.
We shall see what comes of this. What do I have to lose?