Vintage Apron

I finished the apron tonight.  It is baggy and doesn't fit all that well.  I never tried on the original so how do I know that it isn't supposed to fit this way?

 Frankly it looks better on the hanger than it does on me.  But I am not entering it in a contest nor am I a model.  It will suffice.

UPDATE.  Linda commented below and included a link.  Sometimes the linkiness of links doesn't transfer when the comment is published.  Here is the link https://www.indygojunction.com/patterns/adult_clothing/aprons/afternoon_tea_apron/

That apron looks a bit dressy, but perhaps when the Queen comes to visit I would wear it.  Hah.  Her Highness declined my most recent invitation so I won't be needing such fanciness. 

Odd, but worth it.

 Most domestic sewing machines take the common 15 X 1 (or 130/705 system ) sewing machine needle.  This is quite convenient. The Singer 206, 306 and 319, don't.  You must use a 206X13 needle in those machines. It isn't a huge deal.  The needles are available, though a bit more dear than the 130/705 system.  For that reason I have avoided using my 306K and 319W.

Singer 319W

Singer 306K

The 206 still needs some work, I am ashamed to admit. It has been sitting on the shelf since I returned from Ray White class two years ago. 

Singer 206K

 Tonight, after dinner, but before Downton Abbey,  I thought I would set up a zig zag machine in preparation for inside sewing.   It is much too cold out in the sewing loft now.   I was going to haul the Riccar in from the loft.  Brrrr. I really didn't want to traipse out there to fetch a machine.  Aha, the 319W lives inside.  No, no, no, remember how hard it was to get it out of that base?  Use the 306K!

TA DA

The leather belt that fit the 66 so well was way too tight for the 306. I had to install the coil spring belt . It took me about 5 minutes to do so.  I also took off the bobbin winder.  The belt rubbed against it and the noise drove me nuts.  The belt does rub against the metal lift spring, too, but I buffered that with some tape.  I know, I know, TACKY. 

 Still,  the stitch is worth it. 

Top stitches

Bottom stitches

Cutie Patootie

This cabinet came with a Singer 401.  I love it.  It is a very well made cabinet.  The drawers are dovetailed and it looks like it is real plywood underneath the veneer.

It was the proverbial plant stand in its former life and subsequently the finish was peeling in the familiar round shape.  I think that likely a philodendron was sitting on this table. 

I sanded the top and was contemplating refinishing the whole thing when common sense took hold.  I have enough to do.  I was worried that the colors would be off.  When I sanded it, there was a light yellow stain underneath the finish. Some of it remains in the grain of the OAK veneer.  Time is of the essence, however.  We have company coming in a few weeks and I want this to go into the apartment.  Oh, I must also mention that Steven is tired of me taking over his shop.

The drawer pulls were stained and ugly.  I experimented with some black spray paint and liked the look so I painted the other two.  I am pleased with the outcome.  I hope to do the whole thing one day but for now it is good enough.  The colors match nicely.  Now to figure out which machine to put in it.  Oh, maybe the 306K.

Time will tell (be forewarned..this is a wordy, if not verbose, post)

So. I got out the famous Ray White timing tool.  Installed a brand new #90 needle in the 319W and set about timing the hook and the needle.  It would not work.  I fiddled around some before I finally decided to just come in the house (it was warmer in here) so that I could have the working 319 near by for comparison.  That was when I discovered  (moron that I am) that I was using a 130/705H system needle.  The 319 takes a 206X13 needle.  Oh good.  Something simple.  Well, even with the CORRECT needle I couldn't get the thing to NOT catch on the hook as the thread went around.  So then I put in the bobbin case (more brilliance, I just astound myself) but it STILL would catch.  I was STYMIED.  STUMPED.  FRUSTRATED.  BAFFLED.  CLUELESS. AND BUMMED TOTALLY.  TOTALLY BUMMED.  ABSOLUTELY. 

Then the kids came.  Saved from myself.

This morning I went back out to the shop. Last night I studied the 306 service manual, re-read Bill Holman's advice about how to fix these machines if they have been re-timed for a 130/705H needle system.  I checked the feed timing, I re-timed the hook, I checked the needle bar height.  I did it all.  STILL, it would catch as the thread went around the bobbin case.

THEN  I wondered if perhaps the problem was that the tension assembly was dirty.  I took that sucker apart and cleaned it.  I couldn't get the stud out of the machine because the set screw was glued in there with old dirt and oil.  Heat and Tri-Flow.  Heat and Tri-Flow.  Heat and Tri-Flow.  Admittedly the tension assembly was dirty.  But that was NOT the problem.  Well, ok I was not yet at the "I CAN'T TAKE THIS ANY MORE AND I WANT TO THROW THIS MACHINE OUT THE WINDOW AND NEVER LOOK AT IT AGAIN." but I was dang close.  Tears were trying to well up in my eyes and I was shaking, only a little bit.  So I walked the dogs.

I decided that my original plan, to have the working 319 near by, was a good one.  I came back in the house (the kids had left by then, quick trip to fetch a car) with the famous timing tool, screw driver, LIGHTED MAGNIFYING GLASS (did I mention that I am in my seventh decade?) and requisite needle and bobbin case.  Oh how I did not want to get that 319W out of its base.  I did that the other day and it was a bear to get back together.

Then I remembered... I have a 306!!!!

I put the two of them together on the table.  I stripped the foot, the needle plate, the feed dogs off of the 306.  I tipped it up on its end and I studied that hook with the lighted magnifying glass.   I dropped the needle down to DROP DEAD CENTER put the famous Ray White timing tool in place and studied the position of the needle in relation to the hook when the needle bar was raised about 2.5 mm (courtesy of the famous Ray White timing tool). 

Then I took the FRWTT off of the 306 and put it on the 319.  I got that needle and hook as close as I could to perfect.

THEN I tried it.  The thread still got stuck.  OK  tears are starting to flow...... WTF (and bad language too).

I turned to the 306 and threaded it up,  and watched as the thread went around the bobbin case.  IT GOT STUCK TOO.  WTF WTF WTF.  Could it be that simple?

I put the needle plate back on the 306...Perfect stitches.  WTF WTF WTF.

I put the needle plate back on the 319.  Perfect (ok not perfect but pretty f...... close (bad language persists)) I managed to GET perfect straight stitch stitches by adjusting the tension. 

CAN YOU BELIEVE IT?   I was holding the thread up as I was testing the timing, but I guess I wasn't holding it up loosely enough or something.

Some famous inventor of a timing tool always said, over and over again.  "Nine times out of ten it is something simple."

306K threading diagram

USE ONLY 206X13 NEEDLES FOR THIS MACHINE.

To Thread this machine have the presser foot UP.  The needle goes in with the flat (scarf) to the back

1. From the spool pull the thread through the thread guide at the top. Then anchor the thread against the machine with your left hand and pull

2. the thread  down and around through the tension discs.  There are three (it accepts double needle) it doesn't matter between which two.  KEEPING  pressure on the thread yank/tug/jerk the thread

3.Up under the check spring.  This check spring is open so be sure the thread gets caught under the spring.  I have two number 3s in the photo.  Sorry..

4. Then back under the thread guide

5 Through the take up lever.  The take up lever should be in its highest position ideally.

6 7  8  Thread guide

9 through the eye of the needle front to back . 

Singer 306K

This is the best deal I have made.  IT WAS FREE.  Steven was working on a house down the road last winter.  He told Mary and Ed that I was obsessed with sewing machines.  "We have a sewing machine she can have down in the basement"  It was snowy day, just before Christmas, when we went to look at it.   I  opened the cabinet (which was in pretty bad shape) and lifted the machine up.  "Oh , look, its a 306K"  I said, like I knew exactly what it was.....truth is, I read the little lable beneath the stitch length regulator.  But Steven, Mary and Ed were impressed.

When Mary came to fix her 99k over Labor Day, she was so excited to see the 306 all cleaned up.  I offered it to her, but she would not take it.  So, its mine and now I must find a cabinet for it.  I did save the hardware from the original cabinet.  I am not sure why.......

Betsy and I each found a 306 at the Auction last weekend.  Hers is in much better shape than mine, which I am sure is a parts machine.  I think that it was re-timed to take a 15 X 1 needle because I found a 15 X 1 needle in it when I brought it home.   The experts on Vintagesingers  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vintagesingers/  believe that it is wrong to re-time the 206 306 319 to accept the 15 X 1 needle.  As originally designed, these machines take a 206 X 13 needle.  They are available, but not in all sizes and the double needle is no longer made.  My 306K pictured here has one double needle in the goodies box.

I honestly had thought about posting this on eBay. This was the eBay picture.   I can't do it now, not after I saw how excited Mary was that I fixed it all up.  Honestly, I only thought I should sell it because I have so many machines.