Wednesday, December 18, 2013


 They aren't that difficult to make.  You can make them any size you would like.

I made a larger one for this TUT TUT
Gather your materials.  If you are like me, your stuff is all around you and all you have to do is go to your studio or loft or sewing room and get started.  I notice, though, that other blog writers gather and list  their materials first.
The most important items should be gathered  first.

Of course, the sewing machine, needle and thread are missing from this photo.  The marking pen is also missing as are seam ripper, scissors and tape (for the ends of the tape measure).

Decide how large you want the snap bag to be.  For a coin purse size I used 5.5 X 7.5 for the outer and 5.5 X 11 for the lining/casing.  (I think).  The key measurement is that the lining should be about 3.5 inches longer than your outside fabric.

Fuse some batting (or you can use some fusible interfacing such as pellon) to to wrong side of the outer fabric.

I used Wunder Under to fuse my batting to my outer fabric.  I cut it smaller than the batting and the fabric by 1/2 inch in both dimensions.  That way I could trim the batting away from the edges after I made the seam

For this snap bag (it is too big to be a coin purse) I used a piece of fabric that was 7 X 10.

Fold your outer piece in half, wrong sides together, keeping the narrow (7 in) width.  Stitch the side seams using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  Trim the batting from seam allowance.  If you use interfacing, cut it smaller than your fabric so that it is not caught in the seam allowance.

Box the corners.  I made the seam about one inch from the point on this one.  For the smaller coin purse I lined up the point with the edge of my presser foot.  Seemed to be just the right size.
Set this aside.

Turn your attention to the lining fabric.  This, as I mentioned should be longer than the outer fabric by about 3.5 inches.

Keeping the narrow width (in this case 7 inches) fold the lining in half, press, open and cut the lining in half along the fold line.  Make two marks about 2 inches apart in the center of the fold line
Stitch as indicated using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  When you come 1 6/8 inches from the top edge of one of the side seams, back tack one stitch then change to a basting stitch for 5/8 inch. Back tack one stitch and then change back to your regular SPI and complete the seam.   Sorry no photo.  Forgot.
Box the corners, making sure that they are the same size as the corners on your outer fabric.

Turn this right side out. Place this little bag inside the outer bag keeping right sides together.

Match up the raw edges and pin.  Mark 5/8 " from one side seam and 5/8 " the other way from the same side seam.  I should have marked these on the fabric, not the batting.  Can't see them when stitching.
 Start at one mark and stitch along the top edge keeping 1/4 " seam allowance.  Stitch all the way around to your other mark. Back tack one stitch, then baste the rest of the way to meet your starting seam.

Now, using the opening in the bottom of the lining, turn your bag right side out.

 Stitch the gap in the lining together, keeping very close to the edge.  Now, tuck the outer bag into the lining, smoothing the sides and making sure that the top edge, which now reveals the casing, is even all the way around.  

Stitch as close to this edge as you possibly can
Now.  Find your basted side seam.   You will be able to figure out which side you basted because the stitches are so far apart when you gently tug on the seam.  Pick those few basted stitches apart to open the casing.  Place your tape measure pieces (which you have cut to the exact length of  your top.  Be sure to tape the cut ends to protect the fabric) inside the casing, NUMBERS toward the lining.  Slip stitch the opening and you are done.

I admit that I had a bit of a difficult time slip stitching the seam because I actually basted all the way to the top.  It works best if you baste only enough to allow the tape measure through.  Back tacking is important.

There is an alternate method to placing the tape measure pieces.  If you remember I had you baste 5/8 inch on either side of one of the side seams when you were sewing the top edges together.  If, instead of sewing as close to the edge of the casing, you sewed just on the edge of the casing, but not stitching the casing where you had basted.  Then, you pick that seam opened, slip the tape measure in each side from there and top stitch this closed with the machine, matching your stitch lines on the edge of the casing.  I have a hard time matching stitching.

I think Andrea left an opening in the top edge to turn the whole thing inside out.  I did as well with one of the earlier versions.  I found it more difficult to get that gap closed up neatly. 

Have fun.  I used a cheap tape measure from the dollar store.  Mind, they bend easily and the 'memory' of the tape likely is weaker than that in a more expensive one.  But hey, for a buck what do you expect? 


  1. Guess that Husky isn't going anywhere, anytime soon.
    Have to say I'm about 50% Pfaff, 50% vintage overall. With lots of serger thrown in.

    I know its about what you have in your stash, but there is fusible batting available. I usually fuse to within an inch of edges to facilitate trimming bulk out after stitching. A final pressing takes care of the rest.
    Nice collection of finished items!!

  2. I really want to try this! In the one instruction for the side seam, do you mean 1 6/8" from the end, meaning 1 3/4", sew 5/8 with basting stitch? Could the outside be done with heavy fabric do you think? Got to go get some metal measuring tape, enough with the Christmas shopping.

  3. Yes. 1 and 3/4. I was adding 5/8 to 1 1/8 to get 1 and 6/8. I would try the outside with heavy fabric and not use batting. Why not ?