Wednesday, December 18, 2013
TUT TUT TUTORIAL
I made a larger one for this TUT TUT
Gather your materials. If you are like me, your stuff is all around you and all you have to do is go to your studio or loft or sewing room and get started. I notice, though, that other blog writers gather and list their materials first.
The most important items should be gathered first.
Decide how large you want the snap bag to be. For a coin purse size I used 5.5 X 7.5 for the outer and 5.5 X 11 for the lining/casing. (I think). The key measurement is that the lining should be about 3.5 inches longer than your outside fabric.
Fuse some batting (or you can use some fusible interfacing such as pellon) to to wrong side of the outer fabric.
I used Wunder Under to fuse my batting to my outer fabric. I cut it smaller than the batting and the fabric by 1/2 inch in both dimensions. That way I could trim the batting away from the edges after I made the seam
For this snap bag (it is too big to be a coin purse) I used a piece of fabric that was 7 X 10.
Fold your outer piece in half, wrong sides together, keeping the narrow (7 in) width. Stitch the side seams using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Trim the batting from seam allowance. If you use interfacing, cut it smaller than your fabric so that it is not caught in the seam allowance.
Box the corners. I made the seam about one inch from the point on this one. For the smaller coin purse I lined up the point with the edge of my presser foot. Seemed to be just the right size.
Turn your attention to the lining fabric. This, as I mentioned should be longer than the outer fabric by about 3.5 inches.
Keeping the narrow width (in this case 7 inches) fold the lining in half, press, open and cut the lining in half along the fold line. Make two marks about 2 inches apart in the center of the fold line
Box the corners, making sure that they are the same size as the corners on your outer fabric.
Turn this right side out. Place this little bag inside the outer bag keeping right sides together.
Match up the raw edges and pin. Mark 5/8 " from one side seam and 5/8 " the other way from the same side seam. I should have marked these on the fabric, not the batting. Can't see them when stitching.
Now, using the opening in the bottom of the lining, turn your bag right side out.
Stitch the gap in the lining together, keeping very close to the edge. Now, tuck the outer bag into the lining, smoothing the sides and making sure that the top edge, which now reveals the casing, is even all the way around.
I admit that I had a bit of a difficult time slip stitching the seam because I actually basted all the way to the top. It works best if you baste only enough to allow the tape measure through. Back tacking is important.
There is an alternate method to placing the tape measure pieces. If you remember I had you baste 5/8 inch on either side of one of the side seams when you were sewing the top edges together. If, instead of sewing as close to the edge of the casing, you sewed just on the edge of the casing, but not stitching the casing where you had basted. Then, you pick that seam opened, slip the tape measure in each side from there and top stitch this closed with the machine, matching your stitch lines on the edge of the casing. I have a hard time matching stitching.
I think Andrea left an opening in the top edge to turn the whole thing inside out. I did as well with one of the earlier versions. I found it more difficult to get that gap closed up neatly.
Have fun. I used a cheap tape measure from the dollar store. Mind, they bend easily and the 'memory' of the tape likely is weaker than that in a more expensive one. But hey, for a buck what do you expect?